'Coles Vintage Tea Rooms' ... another hidden gem in Rayleigh

'Anyone for tea?'

Greetings Ladies and Gents,

Today's blog is all about the delights of Rayleigh, Essex! I wrote a blog on Lindy Lou's (which is in Rayleigh) in March and I can't express how super this shop is. It sells primarily replica patterns for men and women from the 1940s along with some original vintage pieces. The great part about this shop is that there is no pressure to buy anything but I bet you don't leave empty handed! 

After our journey to Rayleigh we needed to re-fuel so we 

Decorative lamp shades

headed straight to Coles Vintage Tea Rooms. When we came to Rayleigh in March we saw this little cafe but decided to head home instead as it was so cold! This time we made sure we had plenty of time and went for a snack-let. On entering the cafe you are hit by the attention to detail. It's decorated like a 1940s tea-room with art-deco lights, old newspapers, vintage tea sets, bunting and even an art-deco bathroom! We sat down and ordered some lunch - I ordered ham, fried egg and bubble and squeak and husbandy ordered Cumberland sausage sandwich both with lashings of tea. 

Afternoon Cream Tea

The food arrived and we tucked in - I haven't had bubble and squeak for an age and it was divine - I even managed to grab a mouthful of sausage and it was scrumptious. After eating our lunch we were toying on whether to have cake now or later... but as I'm weak the decision to eat cake was now! There was a counter displaying a vast array of different cakes from chocolate to coffee and walnut to scones. I ordered my favourite cake which is the lemon drizzle cake and husbandy ordered the Afternoon Cream Tea. The Afternoon Cream Tea came with two scones, jam and clotted cream plus strawberries and small pieces of chocolate brownie all beautifully presented on a cake stand with a pot of tea. The lemon drizzle cake came with a sprinkling of icing sugar and a strawberry. The cake was just so light and moist - my mouth was having a little party and it did not want to end! My husbandy said that they were the

Lemon Drizzle Cake

best scones he had ever tasted (and he has tasted a few!). The tea at Coles Vintage Tea Rooms (which makes a damn fine cuppa) is there own infusion and the tea selection is endless - you can even buy the leafs to make your own at home! The food was delicious, the cafe had a relaxed atmosphere and the staff were friendly - my idea of a perfect cafe

My Handsome Husbandy

After all the indulgence we thought we best stop otherwise we would need to buy bigger clothes! With full bellies we waddled up to Lindy Lou's where the search to cloth my man began. My husbandy is a tall, slim fella (6ft 4in) and has trouble finding trousers that are long enough... so with some thorough searching through the racks we found a good selection of 33 inch leg. He tried them on and it was like they were made for him! He also wanted a jacket, but didn't have the one he wanted and we thought 'bum', but to our delight the owner said she could make a made to measure and even in the same fabric - smiles all round! We were in Lindy Lou's two hours...the time just flew by. We walked away with two pairs of trousers with a jacket on order... plus a head-piece for me!


Rayleigh is a true hidden gem in south Essex. Not only does it have a great vintage shop and splendid tea room but it is has plenty  more to offer... I could spend a whole weekend there and still need longer. It has a lovely high street with shops you normally find on a high street plus other shops you wouldn't expect to find. I wanted to rummage through the charity shops and fabric shops but ran out of time! There is also a healthy vintage scene in Essex - especially in Southend-on-Sea - so come on; what are you waiting for... 

Happy Indulging x

P.S. Nearest Train Station: Rayleigh (trains leave London Liverpool Street approx. every 15 mins). Only a 8 minute walk from the station. 90 minutes in the car from West London and ample of parking.

Sewing, Facing and Invisible Zips.... The Finale

Dear Ladies and Gents....

Let me firstly apologies for the delay in getting the final installment to you on completing the 'A' line skirt - mostly to 'The Thrifty Stitcher', Claire-Louise - life has got in the way and now I will finish what I started.

So with all the sides overlocked it was now time to join all the pieces together. With the pieces pinned together and the sewing machine set to a straight stitch, follow the tailors chalk line to join the two back pieces to the front piece - taking the pins out as you go. Now its time to insert the invisible zip! Take the 10 inch invisible zip and line the top of the zip with the top of the skirt and mark with tailors chalk where the bottom of the zip is to go on the fabric. The zip goes right side down onto the right side of the fabric - this is then pinned into place (remembering to be 15mm away from the fabric edge). On the sewing machine change the zipper foot to an invisible zipper foot. Align the foot over the zip. To align the zip, it should go down the small hole to the left as you look at the sewing machine and stitch as close to the zip teeth as you can remember not to backstitch as it may damage the fabric and needle. Sew down the side of the zip until the place where you marked the fabric. Top Tip: You need to go as far down as you can so its secure but not too far down otherwise you will catch the zip lever and snap the needle. Also remember as there is not back stitch at either end don't forget to unpick the last loop and manually tie a knot. Now, do the same the otherside. Un-zip the zip and pin the zip to the right side of the fabric remembering to keep the same distance from the fabric edge. Top Tip: do not panic at this point! My brain could not work out how it would work, but trust me and the experts - it does! Do the same as the other side and slip the zip teeth into the right hand hole on the invisible zipper foot. You're almost there! Now swap the invisible zipper foot to a general-purpose foot. Start at the top of the zip and stitch as close as you can get and then all the way to the bottom of your skirt and ta-dah you have a skirt-ish!! I appreciate this is complex but do persevere... once done it is so satisfying! A great tutorial to help you out is 'How to sew an invisible zip' by ctquiltingvideos - link below.

Joining the facing

Now there is only a couple more part to do and one of them is fixing your facing. A facing is not required all the time but for this skirt one was inserted. To create the facings trace the pattern onto dressmakers square patterned paper using the pattern from the skirt. Before tracing remember to take out the darts and measure down approximately 3.5inches - do this for both the front piece and back two pieces. This then needs to be pinned to the fabric and cut out using fabric scissors - remember to place the front facing on the edge of folded fabric to make one long piece and cut out two back pieces. Once cut out pin the back pieces to the front pieces remember the 15mm hem line. Once the three pieces are joined together, overlock the sides and the bottom. Once overlocked, pin the right sides together at the top of the skirt. Now to ensure you don't go over you zip, mark each side with a pin - this will be your start and end point. Go back to the sewing machine and sew the facing to the skirt. Turn the facing into the skirt and its almost done!

The hem ready to the hand-stitched

The final part of the skirt is the bottom hem. As I wanted my skirt to have a more vintage feel I hand sewed this by using a herringbone stitch. I would describe this as hand sewn zig-zag stitch; only catching a tiny thread on the outer fabric and catching the hem as you go - this should also appear invisible on the outside. I decided to do this bit at home as the day was all ready drawing to a close - but one thing was for sure...I had made a skirt :)

Top tips:

• Equipment: Hemming ruler, fabric scissors, fabric, dressmakers square patterned paper, pins, sewing machine, invisible zipper foot, invisible zip and patience!

Useful websites/ blogs:

• 'How to sew an invisible zip' by ctquiltingvideos - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2Dz6tk_fW4

Blurred photo of finished item!

I wear the stunning blue skirt regularly and its been complimented a great deal. I never appreciated the time and effort it takes to make a garment and I now have first hand stitching experience. Before I made a skirt I used to think about where my clothes were made and now this is more important than ever. I do try and buy British made where I can and that is why businesses like Vivien of Holloway and other independent shops are so important to me and to keep the British textile industry alive.

For anyone learning to sew I would highly recommend 'The Thrifty Stitcher'. The course is relaxed with clear guidance and support. The day goes so quickly and you will learn a great deal of skills in a short amount of time and retain them for years to come! Again, I'd would like to say a massive thank you to Claire-Louise and to all at The Thrifty Stitcher for a wonderful creative day - I will use all these wonderful skills to make another skirt and other clothes! 

Happy Stitching x

Me? Nominated for a Liebster Award? Read on....

Today's topic is a little different to the norm. Recently I was nominated for a Liebster Award by the lovely Claire Szabo (aka http://sewdixielou.blogspot.co.uk/).  I was so touched at this that I had to enter as it would be rude not too after being nominated and I hope I've not left it too late! This is also great for new bloggers like myself to try and put them on the blogging map! 

So to accept the award there are a few rules:

• Each blogger should answer the questions the tagger has set for you.
• Choose eleven new bloggers (with less than 200 followers) to pass the award on to and link them in your post.
• Create eleven new questions for the chosen bloggers.
• Comment on their page to tell them about the award.
• Each blogger should post eleven random facts about themselves.
• No Tag Backs!!!

So the questions I got asked are below...I thought these were great questions... 

1) If could sew an outfit for someone famous who would it be?

I think it would have to be Will Ferrell. I totally adore this man and think I am his number one fan! He is so flamboyant in all his films, I actually think he would be like that in real life. I would make him an orange and green stripped zoot suit with a cream frilly shirt – a bit like Tom is modelling below!

2) If your sewing machine could talk, what's the first thing you would ask it?

“Why do you work  smoothly one minute, then jam the next?"

3) Where is your most favourite place in the world?

London town... I love it so much! It has so much to offer and as the saying goes:

"Why, Sir, you find no man, at all intellectual, who is willing to leave London. No, Sir, when a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford."
Samuel Johnson

Every time I go into town I see something new and it excites me so. The buildings, the people, the atmosphere, the smells, the hustle and bustle.... you can't experience this anywhere else in the World.

4) What's that one song that can make you feel better about a bad day?

'Frustration' by Soft Cell

5) How would your friends/loved ones describe you in five words?

Giving; Considerate; Truthful; Loyal; Stubborn

6) If you could go back to college what would you study?

Maths! I thought this as early on as the end of my first term at University…but stuck with what I was doing. I really enjoy maths and when I do maths in my current job it really makes me happy :)

7) The one thing you can't live without?

Tea...I'm totally addicted to tea. Betty's tearoom teabags are the best...I now don't take sugar anymore which is a big thing for me but now wonder why I had it in the first place.

8) It’s date night and 1985, who do you pick to go out with and why? Andrew McCarthy, Emilio Estevez or Judd Nelson?

Andrew McCarthy...I was a massive St Elmo’s Fire fan and I used to swoon over him and Rob Lowe…. what a combination… I best stop or I may get arrested!

9) Who is your style icon?

I don’t have one! I’ve never really followed the crowd when it comes to styles… I went my own way and made lots of mistakes but looking back the mistakes are funny now. I love women who are confident in what they wear and more importantly enjoy wearing it!

10) You just got detention? What's the thing you most likely did to get in trouble?

Talking! This is a family trait and I could talk the hinds leg off a donkey! I was always at the back chit-chatting about something or other (usually boys) and was often sent out for being disruptive!

11) You're playing spin the bottle. Who DON'T you want it to land on? 

Chris de Burgh

So my questions my chosen blogger nominees are...

1) If you held a fancy dress party what would it be?
2) Swimming costume or bikini?
3) Tea or coffee?
4) Tattoos or no tattoos?
5) What was/ is your favourite toy and why?
6) What is your favourite sewing tool (excluding sewing machines and overlockers)?
7) Thong or knickers?
8) If you were to do a burlesque act what would be your song to dance to and why?
9) Which series is the best series of Star Trek?
10) Flats or heels?
11)You can star in any movie you choose… who and why?

Now the bit you've all been waiting for... the 11 facts about moi!

In 1997, I went on the Kilroy show with my Mum. At the time I thought a perm and a see-through lace top and black bra was a good idea….looking back this was not a wise choice!

I love Will Ferrell! I just love everything about him – especially as he always strips and sings in his movies :)

I’ve always wanted to work in a pet shop! It sounds random but I’d love it! I love all animals and I’d have the added bonus of looking after them and get paid for the privilege!

I had only been to London four times before I moved here… once as Brownie in 1989, once to visit friends in 2003, as a birthday surprise in 2005 and the final time to find a flat in 2005! I now can’t imagine living anywhere else!

I’m a secret trekkie…well not so secret now! Original Series and Next Gen are definitely the best… I do like Riker (only with the beard)….

I’m nuts… no as in allergic to nuts. I’m allergic to all tree nuts! That doesn’t include peanuts as they’re legumes.

I failed GCSE textiles….and now I’m a stitching enthusiast who has totally caught the sewing bug! I hated textiles at school… I think it had something to do with the teacher… such a shame as I would have a few years of experience under by sewing machine now.

I’m obsessed with the weather… I have five apps on my phone and always go with the best prediction – however this year is proving hard to find decent weather on any app!

I have a pet guinea pig! His name is Mr Black and he has a double bedroom as his house. He is so adorable and his favourite food is cucumber. He was in the monthly guinea-pig magazine….claim to fame.

I detest horror movies... all things horror... especially zombies. '28 days later' totally freaked me out and it just gives me the creeps. 

I epilate... stuff waxing and shaving... epilate all the way. I ain't gonna lie, it does hurt, but now all the pain has been worth it!

And now my nominees...

1) Betty Blues Loungerie http://bettybluesloungerie.blogspot.co.uk - a super sexy blog! This lady makes amazing 1950s lounge wear! It's gorgeous and I'm saving up for some. I hope she visits London again soon.

2) Handmade Jane http://handmadejane.blogspot.co.uk/ - this blog is excellent for sewing beginners and have followed the wash bag tutorial. A great blog to help on your sewing journey.

3) We'll Meet Again http://thewarbride.blogspot.co.uk/ - Great read on all things vintage!

4) Countdown to a Vintage Wedding http://80schickx.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/i-vow-to-thee.html - I love reading this blog about how she is organising her wedding! I can't wait for the next installment. I also think she is fabulous x

5) Incendiary Blonde http://incendiaryblonde.blogspot.co.uk - The passion in this blog just oozes out of the page - great read from a very talented lady!

6) 101 Reasons why I'm single http://reasonswhyimstillsingle.blogspot.co.uk/   - This girl is super and her tweets and blogs brighten up my day!

7) Pintucks and Peplums http://www.pintucksandpeplums.blogspot.co.uk/ - Although this blog is a little out of date, I still love the photos and what it has to say.

8) A Brighton Belle http://abrightonbelle.blogspot.co.uk/ - A fabulous vintage read

9) Sparkly SuperNova http://sparklysupernova.wordpress.com/ - A blog on a mixture of things - well written and well presented. Great twitterer too!

10) Sew Retro Rose http://sewretrorose.blogspot.co.uk/ - A lovely blog on all things vintage and sewing... what a great combo!

11) Quiet Vintage Sewing http://quietvintagesewing.wordpress.com/ - Again, another great read for all things sewing and vintage!

So that's it! I hope you've enjoyed this little trip into my world. I look forward in anticipation to what my nominees have to say and hopefully I could be a winner!

Happy Liebster Awards x

Wanna take part in the Great British Sewing Bee Series 2....

"What?" I hear you cry... you read right. 

BBC2 are looking for all you talented UK based sewing Ladies and Gents to send in your applications to take part in the next chapter of the Great British Sewing Bee.

So if you’re at home behind a sewing machine and you know godets from your gussets we’d love to hear from you. 

So have I got you hooked.... here is what you have to do... 

To find out more, contact us now:

020 70674822 / sewing@loveproductions.co.uk

Or for an application form go to:

http://www.loveproductions.co.uk/be-on-tv

Be quick as the closing date is the 9th June 2013!

Good luck and let me know if you enter!

Happy GBSB x

Cutting, Pinning and Overlocking...

Hello Ladies and Gentlemen....

With another sunny day in London I cracked on with my next sewing project and am well pleased with my progress... I'll blog on this soon but as it is a gift for a good friend it'll have to be kept under wraps for a little while longer! 

In my last bloggie I got to the point of pinning the pattern to the fabric. So, armed with fabric scissors I snipped out the pattern - slowly and carefully to make sure it was as accurate as possible. With the pattern still attached the fabric the darts needed to the drawn on. As I wanted a more vintage skirt, I put all the darts on the skirt - this gives it more shape and shows off those dangerous curves. This part is a little fiddly and takes patience - the best way to do this is to put a pin through the dart pattern (where the little circles are) all the way through to the pattern from the wrong side of the fabric. By putting the pin through you will be able to see where the dart goes and be able to mark with tailors chalk on the wrong side of the fabric. Once marked, remove the pins and join the tailors chalk together to make a 'V' shape. A great link to show this is called Accurate Darts without Permanent Mark posted on Thread Magazine website - link below. Do this for all darts.

 

Trying on for size

With my pattern pieces successfully cut out I was eager just to pin the pieces together, but this wasn't the case - the seam needed to marked on the wrong side of the fabric. When marking the seam, I used a hemming ruler to measure 1.5cm along the edge to ensure the seam would be equal on the inside. A great blog on marking fabric is by Tilly and the Buttons called Marking and Cutting Fabric - link below. Once marked with tailors chalked I pinned the pieces together, also not forgetting to pin the darts (when pinning the darts, align where the tailors chalk is and pin it - it'll make a mini 3D triangle) and for the first time I could actually visualise the skirt.  Top tip: Before going on, do try on what you have pinned. Be careful not to stab yourself when doing this but this will help to see how the skirt will fit and check the length. With some assistance, the waist of my skirt had to be taken in a bit to make it more snug. This was simply pinned on both sides. As the waist was altered the darts needed to be checked but I was lucky as the alignment was still good. With the skirt ajusted I gently wiggled out of it and went and make the slight alterations. To ensure this was accurate, where the new pins

Marking with chalk

were I marked with tailors chalk on the wrong side of the fabric before removing them. This shows a line which will need to be drawn and again measured 1.5cm to get the seam correct. Top tip: If any alterations are made at this stage it is good to pin the pattern back on the fabric when cutting out the alterations. This will save time when you make the skirt next time as the measurements will all ready have been done!

Overlocking bliss!

With the fabric cut the edges needed to be tidied in order not to fray or damage the fabric. There are numerous ways this can be done however we were fortunate enough to have overlockers. I've never used an overlocker before so Claire-Louise showed me how to use it and I was amazed by this machine. It first cuts the fabric then encapsulates the edges by weaving four threads around them - it was flippin' fantastic and now on the wants list! Top tip: If you don't have an overlocker another way to tidy the edges is with a zig-zag stitch. Let one stitch go into the fabric and the other fall out of it so it catches the loose threads. This is good but won't work on all fabrics, so please check before trying! The pieces of fabric were overlocked on three sides (leaving the top) and I was ready to join the pieces together.... but that is for another day and another blog.

Again, I learnt so much in a short amount of time. From cutting the fabric, marking darts, using overlockers and again that patience is crucial when learning something new. Next time I will look at sewing, facings and invisible zips!

Top tips:

• Equipment: Pattern, dress makers ruler (or a long ruler), hemming ruler, tape measure, scissors, tailors chalk, pins, overlocker (or a zig zag stitch) and a mirror to look at your garment under construction.
• Before going on, do try on what you have pinned. Be careful not to stab yourself when doing this but this will help to see how the skirt will fit and check the length
• If any alterations are made at this stage it is good to pin the pattern back on the fabric when cutting out the alterations. This will save time when you make the skirt next time as the measurements will all ready have been done!
• If you don't have an overlocker another way to tidy the edges is with a zig-zag stitch. Let on stitch go in the fabric and the other fall out of it so it catches the loose threads. This is good but won't work on all fabrics, so please check before trying! 
• Patience!!!!!!!!!!

Useful websites/ blogs:

• Thread Magazine website - http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4513/video-accurate-darts-without-permanent-marks
• Tilly and the Buttons - http://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2013/01/marking-cutting-fabric.html

Happy Overlocking x

Fabric Perfection

Hello Ladies and Gents…

With such a glorious day it has given me the boost to share with you the next installment about making an 'A' Line skirt. I attended a one day course ran by The Thrifty Stitcher in Stoke Newington, North London and so far I have shared with you my pearls of wisdom on pattern cutting from a beginners perspective. I will now share with you how to prepare your fabric before the big snip-snip...

Now before you cut your fabric, the fabric must be washed and pressed. The washing of the fabric will decrease the likelihood of the fabric shrinking once the garment is made – you don’t want all your hard work to shrink in the wash and come out all teeny and toasty. The pressing of the fabric will ensure it is smooth again decrease the likelihood of cutting out the wrong size pieces as after all smooth fabric is a smaller surface than creased. So, top tip: wash and press.

So with my washed and pressed fabric and with the pattern size selected we Mark the 'Wrong Side' turned to look at the fabric. I selected a fabric that was plain, but spoke volumes in colour as it was such a vibrant royal blue. A plain colour is quite difficult to decide which side is the ‘right-side’ of the fabric. With close examination, it is the side that is the smoothest appearance. Top tip: Once you know which is the ‘right-side’ put strips of tailors chalk on the ‘wrong-side’ – this easily identifies what side is which and will reduce the likelihood of stitching the wrong sides together. I folded the fabric in half (wrong-sides together) and smoothed the fabric over with my hand. To ensure the fabric is aligned line up the selvedge edges and not the edges that are fraying - this will normally highlight if the fabric has been cut straight. I placed the front pattern piece on the fold – this is so there are no seams at the front of the skirt and to follow the grain. I then placed the back piece on the fabric.

Now, this part is quite complex for my little brain to deal with, but I will do my

Ready for the Snip!

best to explain. With the front piece being on the fold, it naturally follows the grain line as you have smoothed the fabric so that the selvedge edges are aligned. For the back piece you need to align the pattern with the grain. On the pattern it will highlight the direction of the grainline – this needs to be straight and follow the direction of the thread. I measured the distance between the top-edge as the pattern needs to be the same distance to ensure the fabric grain is correct. A great blog that also explains this is by Tilly and the Button called Before You Cut Your Fabric - link below. With my fabric ready I placed my pattern onto my it and pinned into place... ready to be cut.

This phase taught me a great deal about the fabric itself - about the selvedge, grain, grainlines, etc - all adding to memory banks for future reference! Next time I will blog about cutting the fabric and pinning....

Top tips:

• Equipment: Washing machine, iron, fabric, tailors chalk, pins and sewing pattern
• Wash and press
• Once you know which is the ‘right-side’ put strips of tailors chalk on the ‘wrong-side’ – this easily identifies what side is which and will reduce the likelihood of stitching the wrong sides together

Useful websites/ blogs:

• Tilly and the Buttons -  http://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2013/01/before-you-cut-your-fabric.html

Again, I'd would like to say a massive thank you to Claire-Louise and to all at The Thrifty Stitcher for a wonderful creative day.

Happy Fabric Time x

Patterns, Measurements and Maths

Hello Ladies and Gentlemen...

Let me firstly apologies for not blogging sooner... it's been two weeks since I shared with you my adventures but I do have a genuine excuse...it was my birthday! I had a super weekend and birthday day thanks to my husbandy and friends. I was spoilt rotten which can't be a bad thing. I'm now back and spreading the love.

Since my last sewing blog, I have made a few other bits and pieces - primarily involving squares! But my skills were well and truly put to the test when I attended an all day sewing course that involved making an 'A' line skirt. In a previous blog on sewing, I mentioned a great website called 'The Thrifty Stitcher' which has lots of hints and tips to help with sewing projects. The Thrifty Stitcher is an friendly sewing school ran by Claire-Louise Hardie who was a consultant to the BBC2 programme 'The Great British Sewing Bee'. She runs evening, half days and day courses for all levels to try and de-mystify the art of sewing. So with all these exciting courses to chose from I selected the 'An Introduction to Dress Making - Making a Skirt' (link below). 

Fabric Made in UK

Once booked, an email came through of what to expect from the day and what to bring. The key items to bring were fabric, an invisible zip and thread to match the fabric. With these instructions I jumped straight onto the 'Ray Stitch' website where I clicked and examined all the glorious fabrics they had on offer. When it came to the actual selection I remembered the first episode of the GBSB and decided not to get a complex pattern or anything too lightweight! So I selected a truly stunning shade of royal blue in a medium weight cotton (made in the UK) with matching zip and thread.

Thrifty Stitcher HQ

Soon the time passed and the day arrived to head over to Thrifty Stitcher HQ in Stoke Newington. Travel links are simple and they are very, very clear on the website with great photos to help you locate landmarks. I traveled to Highbury and Islington station, hopped on a local bus and after 2 minute walk from the bus I was there.  I entered the building and was greeted by Claire-Louise aka 'The Thrifty Stitcher'. The room had a lovely set up with a big sewing table, sewing machines, over-lockers, samples, fabric, toiles - everything you would expect to see in a sewing room!  I was soon settled down with a cup of tea and chatting away. Some other sewing bees arrived (four in total and the maximum size class) and soon we were all examining each others fabrics. With the creative juices flowing the class began....

Now the plan is to split the day over a series blog. I had to take in a great deal of tips, hints and skills and to get the full benefit from it and not to lose you by reading streams of text, I will break them down into smaller chunks. So, this blog starts at the beginning by focusing on patterns and pattern cutting...

'A' line skirt pattern

The stitching aim of the day was to make an 'A' line skirt. This being my first pattern I have ever cut I was both a little excited and nervous. The skirt pattern is by Butterick (B4461). However before the pattern was released from the packet we needed to be measured. With Claire-Louise armed with a tape measure I had my waist and hips measured. Top tip: If taking measurements, take the measurements from the side of the person and not the front - it will save a lot of embarrassment when you have your face in a strangers crotch! 

Size guide

To select the size of the pattern look at the waist and hip measurements closest to your size (normally located on the back of the packet). If you like a snug fit, go for a size down or if you like a loose fit go for a size up. Top tip: Check the waistline on the pattern itself as it actually tells you how much 'give' it will have once made. A great blog that goes into more detail is by 'Tilly and the Buttons' called 'How to select your sewing  pattern size' (link below). Top tip: Don't worry of you make it larger - it is generally easier to take fabric away than add in. My measurements were a 30" waist and a 41"hip. After checking the guidelines we decided to follow a size 14 pattern (as I like a snug fit) and add an extra 2" to the waist.  To add the 2" to the pattern add 0.5" the front and back piece. (NB: this calculation is based on 2"/4 as you work on four pieces of fabric). 

Adding width

With the packet now in my hands, I opened it and started to make the personal adjustments to the pattern. I added a half of an inch to the front and back piece. To ensure it blended nicely back into the pattern I used a dress making curved ruler and a pencil. Once this was done I cut out the pattern - slowly and accurately. Once cut out it was now time to look at the length. As I wear 1950s/ vintage style clothes I wanted an on-the knee length. To achieve this 5" were added to the pattern. Now I thought this would just be added to the bottom of the pattern - WRONG! On the pattern there is a line that says

Adding length

'lengthen or shorten here' - this is where the additional 5" will be added. Tracing paper can be used but we used a dressmakers square patterned paper. The pattern was cut along the line and pinned to a sewing board that had inches clearly marked on it. The extra pattern paper was inserted and taped (using scotch tape). To ensure continuity a small side piece had to be added and again I used the dressmakers ruler to smooth the curve. The extra paper was cut off and ta-dah I had my finished pattern.

Being my first item made from a pattern I was surprised at the amount of preparation it took even to make the pattern the correct size. I took for granted that a pattern was taken out of the packet, attached to fabric and that was it - boy, was I wrong. Even making sure the pattern fits correctly by adding extra inches to the waist and length takes time but I suppose it's like all things - make sure the preparation is correct and the rest should be easy (well, you will have to wait for the next bit!). Next time I'll look at the fabric and starting to make the skirt!

Top tips:

• Equipment: Pattern, dress makers ruler (or a long ruler), hemming ruler, tape measure pencil, scissors, calculator and a cutting mat. You may also need additional dressmakers paper and scotch tape depending if any alterations are required
• Take body measurements from the side and not the front - it will save a lot of embarrassment when you have your face in a strangers crotch!
•  Don't worry of you make it larger - it is generally easier to take fabric away than add in.
• Check the waistline on the pattern as it actually tells you how much 'give' it will have once made

Useful websites/ blogs:

• The Thrifty Stitcher - http://thethriftystitcher.co.uk/category/classes/intermediate/#make-a-skirt
• Ray Stitch - http://www.raystitch.co.uk/
• Tilly and the Buttons - http://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2013/02/how-to-select-your-sewing-pattern-size.html

I'd would like to say a massive thank you to Claire-Louise and to all at The Thrifty Stitcher for a wonderful creative day - I will definitely be back for the dress making day! 

Happy Pattern Cutting x