Finishing Off and Catching Up... oh and Happy New Year!!

Happy New Year Ladies and Gents...

Firstly apologies for the lack of love I've been giving my blog... life has been getting in the way... so I'll do my best to update you with what projects I've been up to and other adventures along the way :)

My last blog was about cutting out the fabric and practicing button holes for the Tofino Lounge Trousers. Now with all the pieces cut out ready, I needed to tidy the edges of the fabric so they didn't fray. I've mentioned before I don't have an Overlocker so I use a zig-zag stitch to stop the edges from fraying. To do this, you put one part of the zig-zag stitch into the fabric and the other over the edge. A great blog which shows this is Tilly and the Buttons - Finishing Seams - Zig-Zag Stitch. Once I had gone around all the pieces of fabric, I pinned the fabric (right sides together) aligning the notches. Once pinned, I took the first leg to the sewing machine, sewing 1.5cm along the seam. I did this to both legs. With legs had been sewn now came the tricky part of sewing them together!

So with this in mind, I re-read the pattern. I inserted one leg inside the other (with one leg right side out and the other inside out), lined up the notches, pinned and sewed following the 1.5cm allowances and as per the pattern. Top Tip: Please make sure you follow the 1.5cm allowance... I think mine varied so when finished the trousers were a little snug. Once sewn together, I pulled the leg out and they actually looked they the beginnings of some trousers... smiles all round :)

The next steps was to make the waistband. As my fabric was light-weight I bought some interface to give the fabric more strength - specifically around the the button holes. I purchased some interface that would be ironed on. Top Tip: Practice ironing the interface on a bit of scrap fabric. This will ensure you iron the right side to the fabric and also check out much heat needs to be applied to make it a success. Once I had done a test run, I cut the interface to fit over the buttonholes and ironed accordingly. Once completed, I made the buttonholes (more information on buttonholes on my previous blog Preparing for Tofino Lounge Trousers) and followed the pattern on attaching the waistband to the legs. 

Waistbands and I don't seem to get along very well. It took me over an hour to understand what the pattern meant. What I worked out was that the waistband goes over legs and not just attached to the top. This is hard to explain, but from the pattern I thought it was pinned to the top - not that the waistband was actually attached up-side-down, wrong side out and over the legs - I hope I've explained it ok! Top Tip: When sewing the waistband don't forget to leave a big enough hole at the back to allow the tie belt and elastic through. Ok, so waistband and legs all attached and nearly finished - hurrah!

Here is when I had a change of heart and made the tie belt. I was lucky enough to have red fabric left over from when I made the red circle skirt so cut out the pattern and fabric and started to make the belt. Once sewn, turn the fabric inside out - please allow some patience for this - it made my hands have cramp but it is worth it. Top Tip: To make sharp points gently push the ends with some fabric scissors but don't push to hard or you'll go through the fabric! Once the belt was complete, I inserted the elastic through the opening in the back of the waistband. Top Tip: When threading the elastic pin one end with a nappy pin to the fabric and put a good size nappy pin on the other end. This makes it easier to thread around the waistband. Once threaded, hand sew the ends of the elastic together - make sure you do this securely. Now thread the tie belt around and hand sew the hole at the back of the waistband. The only thing left to do is hem the trousers and ta-dah - I had finished my Tofino Lounge Trousers all ready for Rhythm Riot!

All in all I would say the trousers took me about 10 hours or so. I found the pattern quite taxing but as a beginner I thought I did quite well. The most challenging part I found was connecting the waistband to the trousers and making the waistband align when stitching in the ditch (stitching in the ditch being sewing in the seam line). I failed badly on this part and had to hand sew the inside part of the waistband as I had sewn this when using the sewing machine. Again, this will take practice and as the trousers are so comfortable I will be making another pair!

Top Tips:

• Equipment: Fabric, pins, pattern, scissors, sewing machine, button hole presser foot and thread - oh and patience!
• Please make sure you follow the 1.5cm allowance... I think mine varied so when finished the trousers were a little snug.
• Practice ironing the interface on a bit of scrap fabric. This will ensure you iron the right side and check out much heat needs to be applied to make it a success
• When sewing the waistband don't forget to leave a big enough hole at the back to allow the tie belt and elastic through
• To make sharp points gently push the ends with some fabric scissors but don't push to hard or you'll go through the fabric!
• When threading the elastic pin (using a nappy pin) one end to the fabric and put a good size pin (again, using a nappy pin) on the other end. This makes it easier to thread around the waistband

Useful websites:

• Tilly and the Buttons:  http://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2013/03/finishing-seams-zigzag-stitch.html
• 'All you need to know about machine and hand sewing - Sewing Basics' by Sandra Bardwell

Happy Sewing x

Preparing for the Tofino Lounge Trousers by Sewaholic... including Button Holes

Tofino Pattern by Sewaholic

Hello Ladies and Gents...

With my sewing machine clean, I could start to prepare the fabric for the Tofino Lounge Trouser pattern. I had been out to my local fabric shop (see link below) to select some gorgeous fabric for this pattern. I hunted through the racks - through gingham and flannel and cottons and spots. I wanted to used gingham for the project and spoke to the lovely shop lady who gave me some great advice. She said that gingham would look good but as I was a novice she thought a repetitive pattern would be best and move on to gingham after a bit of practice. With the hunt still

Tools for the job

on, I spotted a lovely pale blue with pink flowers on - perfect. I purchased the fabric along with a hem gauge and elastic. Happy with my purchases I headed straight home to wash the fabric ready for cutting!

After looking at the instructions on how to lay the fabric with the pattern on it, I had a dilemma on what size to cut. As mentioned in an earlier blog, this pattern is specifically made with pear shape women in mind. I looked at the size chart and could see I fluctuated between an 8 and a 10 and then to confuse me even more I looked at the finished measurements and couldn't fathom out how a 40inch hip would need a 47.5inch when finished. With me starting to worry I hadn't bought enough fabric I remembered that 'Tilly and the Buttons' had a great blog on this (see link below). After reading this (and

Checking the pattern fits!

understanding that although you are a certain measurement you wouldn't want your clothes the same size as otherwise it may stop  you breathing), I opted for a size 10, although this did not stop my dilemma as I bought fabric for a size 8! I lay the fabric on the floor and roughly lay the uncut pattern on the fabric, and phew I had enough! Top Tip: Check sizes before purchasing and also look at how long the finished item is - I was so focused on the bust/waist/hip measurement that this slipped my mind. I was lucky that the finished garment is 33 inches so just long enough for my 32inch pins.

With size selected I got snipping! I snipped all the pattern pieces out (I'm not using the contrast bits this time...I've not made a pair of trousers before and I checked it can be left out but there is always next time) and ironed it on a gentle heat. With my fabric and pattern ready, I pinned the pattern to the fabric and cut out the pieces including the notches. With the pieces all ready to go I referred back to the pattern to see how to put it all together. One of the pieces requires a button holes to thread a belt through (ok, I may do this, but piping is definitely out) and haven't done button holes before so instead of starting out sewing the pieces together, I thought I would practice button holes.

Button Hole Presser Foot

Before I started to sew I checked the manual to see if I had the right presser foot along with how to do it. I was in luck that I had the presser foot but the manual seemed a little unclear so I dug out my sewing book which it explained in better detail. The button hole foot acts as your guide and has a nifty measure lines on it. I don't actually need it for buttons, but if you do measure your buttons and add 0.3mm to ensure the button will slip in and out with ease. With the button hole foot on and fabric ready (using scraps of what I had cut out) I set the stitching in motion. My first attempt, well, was ok but it would be for a massive button. Also as my fabric is thin it made the button hole quite weak. Top Tip: If using a light weight fabric you may need some facing to strengthen it. I don't have any so used a bit of left over

Success!

wadding from my quilting project. I made a wadding sandwich and tried again, and again and again and finally the third time was a success. The second time when I went to cut the gap to make the button hole I caught the thread so weakened the button hole. The size of the hole was 1inch x 3 stitches - this was the size specified and now I've practiced I think I will be good for the real thing... best order some facing ASAP!

I can't stress enough how importing preparation is on sewing projects. If you're like me you just want to get on your machine and start stitching away. Sadly though, if you don't prep properly then the actual stitching will become more tricky. I feel now that with my fabric cut and by practicing button holes I'm now ready to move on to stitching the trousers together! Until next time...

Top Tips:

• Equipment: Fabric, pins, pattern, scissors, sewing machine, button hole presser foot and thread
• Check sizes before purchasing - this will ensure you buy the right amount of fabric! If in doubt, ask the shop assistant or double check!
• Look at how long the finished item is - I was so focused on the bust/waist/hip measurement that this slipped my mind. I was lucky that the finished garment is 33 inches so just long enough for my 32inch pins
• Button holes: If using a light weight fabric you may need some facing to strengthen it. 

Useful Websites/ books:

• Sewaholic - http://sewaholic.net/
• Tikki Quilt and Patchwork - http://www.tikkilondon.com/
• Tilly and the Buttons - http://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2013/02/how-to-select-your-sewing-pattern-size.htm
• 'All you need to know about machine and hand sewing - Sewing Basics' by Sandra Bardwell

Happy Prepping x