The Big Clean Up.... Sewing Machine Style

Hello Ladies and Gents...

Sewaholic Pattern

Today was going to be the day I started on my new sewing project - my Tofino Lounge Trousers (aka pyjamas) by Sewaholic. I found this pattern a little while ago and with Sewaholic specifically aiming their patterns at pear shape ladies I bought it and I've been looking forward to making it since then. I finally found some time so dug out the sewing machine. To my disgust I had put away my Singer covered in red fluff and dust (from making my red skirt...Seeing Red... Red Circles of Fabric)... the poor thing. So before I did anything I got the manual out to see how to maintain my machine.

I've cleaned it before, but it was a good four months ago and with the

Before....

thought of embarking on a new sewing project I wanted the machine to be lint and dust free and stitching like a pro. Top Tip: please check your manual on how to clean your machine as they are probably all a little different. I got manual, read through it, got all the necessary tools and I was ready to go!

The first thing is not to have the power on just in case - you don't want to electrocute yourself. With the power off, I took off the presser foot and the needle. Once removed, I started to unscrew the needle plate. When I took off the needle plate it was full of lint and grease - yuk. I took the little brush that came with my machine and with a lot of brushing and a few big breathes this part of my machine was clean.

Bobbin House

Now came the tricky part - to clean the bobbin house or hook. Remove the bobbin and flip back the retaining arms. Remove the hook race cover and hook and clean with a damp soft cloth. Top tip: Use one you don't mind getting greasy and also remember to use one that is soft and damp. Once cleaned, place to one side. Gently wipe the inside of the machine to remove any dust or excess grease. To lubricate your machine I use the Singer Super Oil which is specifically for sewing machines. Drop a couple of drops onto the hook race and move handwheel a few times. Once happy insert the hook and the hook race cover. Snap back the two hooks to hold the bits in place. Insert your bobbin, replace the needle plate, re-connect the presser foot and

Hook Race Cover & Hook

needle (it makes sense to replace it with a new needle as you've done all the hard work) and wipe down the whole machine and you are done. I couldn't wait to use it so I gave it a test run... it stitched like a dream! 

After...

I'm so pleased I did it because now I know that when I go to use my sewing machine, it is ready to go with a fresh needle and dust free. It literally takes about 15 minutes - 15 minutes well spent in my opinion - so what are you waiting for - get out your sewing machine and manual and get cleaning!

Happy Cleaning x

Seeing Red? Red Circles of Fabric that is!

Hello Ladies and Gent,

Tools for the job

So I thought I would share with my latest sewing project... which is to attempt to make a circle skirt from a new pattern! When I went to my sewing class earlier this year, Claire-Louise aka The Thrifty Stitcher was kind enough to give me another pattern to try out at home. The pattern she gave me was the Simplicity 2906 which has two skirt patterns to follow but as I had all ready got a pattern for an 'A' line skirt I thought I ought to give the circle skirt a whirl. 

Now the dilemma of what fabric to use! I wanted to get some nice tartan fabric,

Useful hints from Sandra Bardwell

but I thought I would find matching the fabric up rather treaky so thought I better stick within my limits for now so chose a lovely crimson colour. I bought my fabric from Ray Stitch and I can't tell you how impressed I was with my visit. I called the shop the day before to see if they had the crimson fabric in stock along with a red 25cm invisible zip. I was thrilled when they said yes and told them I will see them the next day. When I arrived at 9.05am on Saturday morning they were open and had remembered my call and my goodies were all out ready for me! I was over-joyed that they had remembered and made my trip seamless (no pun intended). Now armed with my fabric (which was washed and pressed) I was ready to start creating!

Cutting lines

The first thing I did was measure myself - sadly my waist was still the same as when I made my skirt in April, but at least I've not grown in size. I took my measurement and I was a size 16 for this pattern. I cut the pattern piece out following the lines carefully and slowly. It was quite tricky as the pattern is large but I persevered  Top Tip: Gently press the pattern to ensure it is at its smoothest. I pressed the pattern when I ironed the fabric or iron it direct on a cool setting. Once cut out I then lined up the pattern on the fabric. This is when I had to remember grainlines and all that good stuff...which at first I had forgotten. I turned to my blog, Tilly and the Buttons blog as well as my good book called 'All you need to know about machine and hand sewing - Sewing Basics' by Sandra Bardwell. Although the pattern came with instructions its written in code for a novice so another Top Tip is always look up something if you are unsure of what it means. Like me I had to remind myself of the selfredge and the grain and I'm pleased I did as I originally pinned the pattern on wrong! 

I prepared my fabric (remembering to put strips of tailors chalk on the wrong

Mark the wrong side of the fabric

side of the fabric) and smoothed it by running my hand over it. Top Tip: Remember that the edge that is cut is not always 100% so don't pin the pattern against the edge. I had to look at this a few times and on the pattern you will have a long arrow which shows the grain line. In this instance the grain line was perpendicular to the selfredge. With my pattern securely pinned to the fabric, I took my fabric scissors and cut around the pattern and snipping a triangle where there were notches. The notches are there to help you line up the fabric pieces. I had to do this twice to make the front and the back piece of my skirt. Top Tip: If possible, this would be easier on a large table. I don't have this luxury but I cleared a large space on my wooden floor and cut carefully around the pattern.

Lining up the grain

Now with my fabric cut I wished I had an overlocker to stop the edges from fraying. However you can make a make-shift overlocker type thing on any sewing machine by using the zig-zag stitch. I set the machine to the longest stitch set on zig-zag and with one side sewn into the fabric and the other side just falling off the edge to catch the thread it secures the edge and helps reduce fraying. I did this to the sides and the bottom of my skirt. Tilly and the Buttons also recommends this but she does it when the hem is complete but I did it before hand - not sure if it makes a difference - time will tell.

I then double checked the instructions and realised I needed to put a 'stay stitch' in the top of the fabric to stop it from stretching. I didn't know what it was so I googled it - it is a long basting stitch that stays in - simple. So for this I set the sewing machine to a straight stitch on the longest setting and ran the stitch 1cm away from the top. Again, following the instructions I marked a 1.5cm hem down the sides with tailoring chalk in preparation for joining the pieces together and that all important invisible zip!

This is where I shall leave it today and tell you in another blog how I get on with the rest of my task! The one thing I will share is that I really enjoy the challenge this pattern is giving me! Its using the skills I have done previously plus being brave enough to try out new ones - lets hope the invisible zip comes as naturally!

Top Tips:

• Equipment: Fabric (2m) with matching zip and thread, fabric scissors, paper scissors, tailors chalk, pins, sewing pattern, sewing machine, invisible zipper foot, general purpose zipper foot and time!
• Gently press the pattern to ensure it is at its smoothest. I pressed the pattern when I ironed the fabric or iron it direct on a cool setting.
• Always look up something if you are unsure of what it means. 
• Remember that the edge that is cut is not always 100% so don't pin the pattern against the edge.
• If possible, work on a large table. I don't have this luxury but I cleared a large space on my wooden floor and cut carefully around the pattern.

Useful Websites:

• Tilly and the Buttons - Stay Stitching - http://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2013/02/stay-stitching.html
• Tilly and the Buttons - Zig Zag Stitch - http://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2013/03/finishing-seams-zigzag-stitch.html
• The Thrifty Stitcher - http://thethriftystitcher.co.uk/ 
• 'All you need to know about machine and hand sewing - Sewing Basics' by Sandra Bardwell

Happy Sewing xx 

Practice Makes Perfect....

Hello Ladies and Gents and how are we all on this beautiful sun-kissed evening? I just can't get enough of it hence the lack of blogging! As I've decided to have a lazy evening I thought I would share with you what I've been up to...

Well my sewing senses have been tingling and I thought I should start a new project! I was merrily looking at the gorgeous Bernie Dexter collection on the What Katie Did website and tweeted a link about the delightful Veronique Blush Dress in the collection and how much I needed it in my every expanding collection of retro and vintage dresses. My tweeter friend 'inkfairy' saw my tweet and said that there was a great pattern of a similar design that I should give a go! I thought ok, lets have a look at this pattern. The pattern is by Sewaholic and the pattern is the Cambie Dress which is a pattern specifically designed for pear shape ladies like myself. I did some research (as always) and it said the pattern was for advanced sewers... this put me off a little (for the moment) so thought what else can I sew instead? This is when I had a brain wave (or was it a heat wave???) and decided to see what fabrics I had in my stash before I embarked on such grand ideas. I saw I had some waterproof fabric and some satin fabric along with plenty of other pieces... I thought to myself 'I know what I can do...I'll make a shower cap for my mother-in-law and a quilt for my friend who is expecting any minute!'

Sewing in the Sun!

So I assembled my tools and took my sewing basket outside and set up camp. I started preparing all the fabric for both the shower cap and the quilt and before long I had 30 squares of 4"x4", the backing of 28"x24", 2 x 20"x2", 2 x 28"x2" and two large circles all ready for the Singer! Soon I was cooking from the sun so decided to have a break and lie in the shade!

The afternoon quickly rolled passed and I ventured in to start all the 

Shower Cap!

sewing. The shower cap literally took about 30 minutes of sewing and 5 minutes to thread the elastic through! I was amazed at how simple it seemed compared to the first time. I then started to make the quilt which again only took about 60 minutes to complete. I was so impressed with myself - particularly as these two projects seemed so simple the second time round!

Quilt front and back!

What I'm trying to share with you all is that practice does make perfect. I was surprised at the ease it was to make these two items and even more that I didn't need to refer to my blog as I had logged how to make them in my brain sack. It did make the experience more pleasurable not having to check instructions every two minutes but if I start a new project I will of course follow the instructions the first time! This opened my eyes and perhaps the stunning Sewaholic Cambie Dress will have to wait a little longer. I feel I need to practice the skills I've all ready learnt before taking the next step. With this new found flare I'm now on the hunt for some tiki fabric to make another 'A' line skirt...so watch this space!

Below are a links to my previous blog plus a few other great links...

• Rockabilly Stitch Quilting Blog: http://rockabillystitch.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/quilting-rockabilly-stitch-way.html 
• Rockabilly Stitch Shower Cap Blog:http://rockabillystitch.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/shower-cap-circles-thread.html 
• What Katie Did/ Bernie Dexter: http://www.whatkatiedid.com/product/984/bernie%20dexter%20retro%20veronique%20blush%20dress 
• Link to inkfairy's blog: http://vintageinkfairy.blogspot.co.uk/
• Link to the stunning Sewaholic Cambie Dress: http://www.sewaholicpatterns.com/product/1202-cambie-dress

Happy Practicing x

P.S. The Bernie Dexter Dress will be in my collection soon...it's just so fabulous!! 

P.P.S. I just wanted to let you know my dear friend was over the moon with the gift of the quilt for her baby boy and here it is all ready in use. I'm so proud that I was able to share a gift that I had made with a dear friend. I hope it comes in handy and helps keep his little knees warm in winter.

Quilt being model by Baby Aidan

Quilting... the Rockabilly Stitch Way

Hello Ladies and Gents,

Well I thought I would update you on one of my stitching projects as it has been a while. A little while a go I shared with you I was starting a stitching project for a good friend and now it is successfully completed! For my birthday my good friend and sewing advisor bought me a sewing book called 'Cute and Easy Quilting and Stitching: 35 step-by-step projects for you and your home' by Charlotte Liddle. I browsed through the pages and found the perfect gift to make for my friend - a baby quilt. After reading the pattern I knew I could make it - especially as it seemed quite simple and you can customise it as much or as little as you want - perfect for me!

Option 1 - Template

So the first thing I did was raid the fabric stash that has been growing over recent months. I looked through what I had and decided that I had enough fabric to follow the pattern so I went for it. My fabric was all ready washed so the next thing I did was iron everything...this ensures the fabric is smooth and easy to manage. I then had to make 30 squares of 4"x4" in order to make the quilt element. Now to do this I started off by cutting out square templates out of paper (option 1), pinning them to the fabric and cutting around them. After a few attempts of this I was concerned the squares would not be even so I thought of another way (option 2) - to use a

Option 2 

metal ruler, a rotary cutter and the markings on my cutting board. This method made the squares more even, less fiddly and a lot quicker to do. I cut out 7 plain fabric, 5 spotty fabric and 18 flowery fabric (4 different flowery patterns). With the squares I went on to design the lay out the quilt. Once I was happy with it, I then started sewing with my faithful singer machine (not hand sewing I hear some of you cry!). One day I will hand sew a quilt but this pattern can be done either way but I really wanted to use my

Quilt Pattern

machine as I hadn't used it since I cleaned it and put a new needle in. On using the machine I couldn't believe what a difference it made, so top tip, do maintain your machine and change the needle frequently! My machine has only had light use but even I, a beginner, could tell the difference.

This is where I became lazy and in hindsight I should have done this a bit differently. Instead of pinning a row of squares together, I just took two squares and sewed them using the pressure foot as the guide. I did this for each square and ended up with five rows of six. A thing I'm not lazy about (which I'm sure my husbandy will disagree on) is ironing the fabric as you go. Once I had five rows of six squares I ironed the

The lazy way...

seam to make it lie flat and keep the material in shape. When joining the rows together I did pin the edges and again followed the pressure foot as the guide. With all rows now joined it was starting to look more like a quilt! Again don't forget to iron the seams open. The next trick was to cut out the boarders....

Pinning the boarders

Now this is when I had to use maths to solve my problem. The two shorter pieces were the same width as the length of the quilted pieces (5x4"=20). I cut out two pieces of 20"x2" in the plain fabric. I then cut the long side pieces which had to be the same length as the quilt, plus the boarder - the total measurement being 28".  I cut out two pieces of 28"x2" in flowery fabric. I pinned the shorter boarder to the quilt and sewed with the sewing machine. I then pinned the long boarder and again sewed this on.... I was very pleased with myself at this stage and was having loads of fun doing it! 

My quilt was almost complete and all I had to do was attach the backing piece. For this you use one piece of material in what ever design you like. Again, I used a floral design and cut the fabric 24"x28". I pinned the fabric (right sides facing) and stitched around the edge leaving a four inch gap at one end so the wadding can be inserted. Once stitched I turned the quilt inside out and ta dah... I was finished! And I truly was finished as there has been a change of plan since its original use. Once completed I wanted to show off my work so I put it over a little table we have. My husbandy saw it and loved it so much we now use it as a table cloth! So I best get cutting more squares and making another one for my friend as the baby is due very soon! It just shows how versatile this simple pattern is. Without the wadding it is not a table cloth and with the wadding it could be used as a quilt. Sewing is a great way to express yourself... take a pattern and put your own stamp on it... and you'll have loads of fun doing it!

Top tips:

• Equipment: Fabric (30 x 4" squares, 2 x 20"x2", 2 x 28" x 2" and 1 x 28" x 24"), Cutting Mat, Rotary Cutters, Fabric Scissors, Pins, Iron, Ruler and Sewing Machine.
• Use what ever fabric you like - it's your quilt!
• Do pin the squares together...it may seem tedious but you'll have a much neater outcome - trust me :)
• Do maintain your machine and change the needle frequently! My machine has only had light use but even I, a beginner, could tell the difference.

Happy Quilting x

Sharing the Sewing Passion

Good evening Ladies and Gentlemen,

Since making my beautiful headscarf on Saturday, I have been wearing it with pride. I wore it all day on Sunday and found it extremely comfortable - making this stitching project a further success. This has now lead me to hunt for some more glorious material so I can make my next one (plus an excuse to go to Ray Stitch or place an order with Fabric Rehab!). With this success under my headscarf and my big mouth (as I have been telling friends, family and the wider Twitter community of my delights and new found talent) I have landed myself with commissions. I love this - the thought of meticulously planning my next project and getting stitching and doing it for people who want it is so exhilarating - its making me wonder why I did not start this years ago. 

My new headscarf

Until this year my sewing skills (or should I say sewing confidence) was limited and only went as far as sewing buttons on to my husbandy's shirt. Any other tasks, like when a thread was pulled, had to wait until I saw my mother-in-law who is a natural at this. It seems that the tables have now turned, now that I am armed with a Singer and a willingness to create that my new found flare is needed. My mother-in-law wants a nice wash bag (this is a great little project for me and with Mother's Day fast approaching I have the now got the perfect gift). Also my husbandy wants bespoke handkerchiefs and other little fabric-y goodies. The other added bonus to all of this is that these gifts will be handmade and made with love (and no doubt some sweat and tears along the way).  Let's hope I get a few extra pennies in my pay cheque this month to help move these ideas to fruition!

With all these great stitching projects waiting in the wings, I want to get started now but I don't know which one to start first. One thing I do know is that I shall only start on one stitching project at a time. This sound advice came from my a good friend (and sewing guru) of mine and I believe this to be sound advice, especially as I know what I am like. This is typically what happens with things that don't quite go to plan: I start a project, hit a snag, try and work it out, get frustrated, then get annoyed, throw all my toys out the pram and then give up and move onto something new - something that is less taxing. As I have mentioned in virtually all my sewing blogs that patience is vital when setting out on this journey and suddenly I've found out that I have more of this than I thought and thank goodness. If I was to have this old attitude with sewing I don't think I would have made anything yet with all the little glitches I have had to overcome in such a short amount of time. There is no issue in planning your projects so you can perhaps save money on bulk buying fabric, etc, but I will only physically start one project at a time and see it through to the end before starting a new one.

With the anticipation of undertaking these sewing gems I have been looking for some tutorials and I have stumbled across some great ones (all these tutorials and links will be included when I do these sewing projects). These tutorials have all ready helped me overcome my early worries, like where to buy waterproof fabric and how to resolve the issue of not having an upside down print on the wash bag! Prep, for me, is part of the excitement of my sewing journey - it adds to the experience and gets my sewing juices flowing. 

The best part of this is that I love the fact friends and family are giving me the opportunity to practice my new passion and share my new found passion and creativity with them.

Happy Stitching x

My First Project - the Tote Bag

Good Evening Ladies and Gents,

With the sewing machine fully threaded and my test stitches a success, I wanted to have a go on my first project. My bundle of fabric had arrived from Fabric Rehab (they are totally gorgeous) and I had decided to make a tote bag. I choose a tote bag for the simple reason that my husbandy and my rollers do not get on very well, especially when he stands on one at 3am with bare feet, so I thought a cute little tote bag to keep them all together would be a great idea! I trawled through 'You Tube' looking for a tutorial that was clear and concise and was not too simple, yet not too hard. I found this one called 'How to Sew an Easy/Simple Shoulder Tote Bag (Tutorial) - It's a Cinch!' by tlcinspirations - link below:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_a9Yt1gmutQ&feature=youtu.be

I got my pins, scissors, tape measures, chalk, ruler and fabric ready and measured my fabric. I marked my fabric to the following dimensions:

• Outer fabric - 10inch x 18inch
• Lining - 9.5inch x 18inch
• Ties - 2inch x 18inch

I marked it clearly and cut along the fabric. Tip: I would recommend not to cut the fabric on the floor. I found my lines were not as straight as they could have been but I have definitely selected the right pair of scissors as they glided through the fabric. With my slightly skew-whiff fabric I had all my pieces ready so I set the sewing machine roaring! I was in my element watching the needle glide seamlessly through the fabric leaving a trail of neat stitches behind - oh the satisfaction!

Now I'm not going to give you a full blown account on the steps as you can watch the tutorial for yourself. To personalise the bag I did alter a few things, e.g. I made the bag quite a lot smaller, had straight ties instead of angular ends and no runners up the side plus had lots of fun as I went along as I think the lady giving the tutorial (although very clear and concise) doesn't sound like she is enjoying it! I had quite a few bobbin issues, tensions issues, unpicking issues and the pressure foot falling off twice (tip: always have the manual handy) but I persevered and it took me approx. three hours in total to make my bag. I was impressed considering I hadn't sewn since 1996 and had no one to assist when things kept going wrong. In some ways I actually enjoyed the fluff ups as I think I understand the machine better and know I have more patience than I thought.

I now am the proud owner of a tote bag that has given my rollers a home - I 'm sure the odd one or two will make a run for it but hopefully my husbandy's bare feet won't find them!

The excitement this one project has given me is inspiring. It is making me think about myself in a whole new way and no doubt I will learn a great deal more about me - and maybe even sewing! I think the key thing is that even though I ran in to difficulties I persevered and managed to solve the problem calmly and logically. This may seem normal to some of you reading this, but when things go wrong - and normally with an electrical appliance - my logic goes out the window and a hammer is the usual course of action. Maybe because I really want this project to work I want to understand the basics and learn how to do it right rather than rush through it and think 'that'll do'. Who knows, but what I do know is this - there will be plenty more sewing projects and I think I all ready know what....

Hints and tips

• Again be patient - I had to unpick the same work twice but I knew I had to have it right and also it made very good practice
• Also have the manual and a good sewing book to hand
• Bobbins - Firstly the check you have enough thread in the bobbin - I ran out and was not impressed and secondly make sure you wind the bobbin up correctly - ensure you snap the thread into the bobbin threader as this will guarantee you get the right tension on the thread in
• Always have an unpicker at hand - it saved the day and also a lot of time
• Cut the fabric on a table or on a firm surface - this will help when cutting and keep the lines straight
• Next on the shopping list is a wooden metre rule and a fabric cutter - this will also help keep the lines straight!

My First Stitches

Hi Ladies and Gentlemen…

The essentials

With the anticipation of threading the machine all most making me burst with excitement I thought it was time to unleash the sewing machine. I prepared my working area by placing the table near the window for good light (although by the time I got around to sewing it was dark!), cleared all the clutter in the vicinity, made sure I had a power point and got all my sewing tool kit ready to go just in-case. This kit now includes a wonderful pin-cushion (Made in Britain) purchased from 'Random Button'. I got my Singer and whipped it out the box in all its glory - I was still so pleased with my choice of sewing machine. After reading the manual (again) and making a cup of tea I was good to start with threading the bobbin.

View from the top of Singer 2250

I took my Coats 100% cotton thread and inserted into the spool holder. Once inserted I took the thread and snapped it into the thread guide, around the bobbin thread guide and through the hole into the bobbin (making sure you go from the underneath). I then popped it on to the bobbin winder and slid it across to the right and pressed on the peddle. To watch the bobbin go round and round was very exciting. After a little while I stopped peddling and took the bobbin and ta-dah, it was done. (NB: On my first attempt it went wrong as I had not realised the thread had got caught on the handle of my machine. I had to unwind the bobbin and start again so top tip – check the thread carefully before pressing the peddle!). I inserted the bobbin into the bobbin case ensuring the cotton was through the top of the bobbin case with the thread falling to the right and inserted it into the machine. 

After my success I went onto to thread the machine. Firstly I made sure the needle was at the highest point by turning the handwheel and raising the pressure foot.  Again I took the cotton, passed it through the thread guide and the pre-tension spring, pass the thread down and up the channel, hook the thread behind the thin wire needle clamp guide and through the needle from front to back. I found locating the thin wire needle clamp guide a bit tricky and to begin with I thought it may have broken off but after a thorough examination it was there so all was well in my World!

Threaded machine!

‘What a success!’ I thought to myself and now to hook the two together by raising the bobbin thread. I put the presser foot up and turned the handwheel towards me lowering and raising the needle. The first time the needle went down it did not work, but a few more turns it was hooked and I gently pulled the bobbin thread up and pulled through the back of the machine! I now desperately wanted to get sewing but I had no scrap material so this is where the husbandy comes in handy. I took an old t-shirt and cut it up and started to stitch. It worked like a dream and started to practice a few stitches - it was so satisfying.

I am now waiting for my bundle to arrive from Fabric Rehab so I can get practicing and start on my project… hurry up Mr Postman!

Hints and tips

• Patience! When I came to thread it again had a total nightmare but I persevered and it all came good in the end
• Check the thread is not caught on any other part of the machine before winding the bobbin or starting on a project
• Have a pair of scissors on hand - always useful
• Do use the manual - it is like a Bible!
• Don't wear red lipstick when threading - I licked the end and it went pink!